Statement of Intent
This year’s ride would be based largely on days 17, 18 and 19 of the 2011 Tour de France alpine stages. Not quite sure how we got the idea but it must have seemed like a good one at the time…
Day 1 Friday 8th June – Reigate / Gap
3.50 miles, max 20.9 mph
Having packed the bikes in their boxes yesterday it was up at 4:00 and Pete and Julie picking up Charles en route for the flight from Gatwick to Marseille at 6:40. No problems at check-in and then a leisurely breakfast before making our way to the extra leg room seats on the flight. Cock up #1 came on arrival when we hurriedly bought our SNCF tickets from a machine for the train which would take us to Gap via Marseille. Dashing up an escalator (carrying bike boxes as well as panniers) we found ourselves in one of the airport’s departure halls. Time running out for the “train” we hurried out of the building to discover that actually we would be taking a small shuttle bus to a nearby airport from which we would get a real train into town. It appeared that there were lots of time lags in this arrangement so we opted for buying tickets for the big shuttle bus which went directly into town and the main station we required. Having got there we looked around for our train to Gap and learned that there wasn’t one for over an hour and a half. Weather was sunny and warm so we went outside (carrying bike boxes as well as panniers) and had a beer and baguette to while away the time. Cock up #2 was out of our control. We learned from announcements that there were engineering works on the line and that we would have to transfer to a bus towards the end of the journey. What we didn’t know was that even closer to the end of the journey we would have to transfer back onto yet another train. This was made even more painful when the train was delayed for an hour with a fault. Finally arriving in Gap around 17:30 we borrowed a trolley from the station to transport the bike boxes and panniers the half mile or so to the hotel. Fixed up the bikes over beers and then cycled into town to check out our options. Had a good dinner in a brasserie and a reasonably early night.
Day 2 Saturday 9th June – Gap / Cesana Torinese
72.60 miles, max 39.1 mph, ascent 7624 ft, descent 5675 ft, max 6456 ft
Good breakfast in the hotel watching some German motor-bikers watching their trip video on a laptop. Gentle climbing through pretty scenery from the outset, spotting our first snow cap and the first of many beautiful lakes. After a couple of hours we found a friendly boat/bike shop where they lent us a stirrup pump to check our tyre pressures. Pete subsequently very happy to be riding on 6.5 bar rather than the 2 bar managed with his mini bike pump. We then had a diversionary coffee stop at Guillestre. The first place we tried first claimed to have no milk. When we said that was ok they said they had no coffee. The second place had coffee but we had to get our pain au raisin from a nearby patisserie. Back on the main route it didn’t take us long to hit our first 3C climb, the Cote de Sainte Marguerite (1216m). This felt significant and wasn’t a good omen for what was to follow over the next few days. We celebrated with a beer in St Martin de Queyrieres but as no food was available we continued on to Briancon. The Tartiflette seemed like a good idea until we ran straight into a very steep climb through town after lunch and then seamlessly up the 2C Col de Montgenevre (1860m). This was significantly harder then the 3C climb but having completed it we were on the border with Italy. Just before crossing we spotted a sign for the Gorge di S.Gervasio Cesana-Claviere. Here there was a suspended walkway through the gorge so having hired harnesses we set off on the one hour looping walk for an off road treat. Back on the bikes we had our first fast descent down into Cesana Torinese and our hotel. Over beers we discovered that they didn’t know anything about Steve (Skoda support) who was due to meet us here. Misunderstanding subsequently cleared up and then into town to make reservations at several restaurants to cover all eventualities. By the time Steve turned up we had had our order changed seemingly at random but the food was good and we were kept entertained by our host whose team (Sampdoria) was in the televised process of being promoted to Serie A. The fun continued when he and some of his locals got out a dart board. Steve had to be restrained from handing them a health and safety notice. The walk home included lots of eye contact avoidance with the rejected venues.
Day 3 Sunday 10th June – Cesana Torinese / Saluzzo
87.08 miles, max 38.1, ascent 4458 ft, descent 7470 ft, max 6679 ft
Having tipped Steve off about the Gorge we set off on the 1C climb to Sestrieres (2035m). This was a steady ascent for 1 hour full of anticipation following the remembrance that the genesis of this trip was the promise of the 50km descent to follow. After a photo call we set off but whilst a descent this long should not be spurned, in reality it didn’t turn out to be as much fun as others on the trip. Two thirds of the way down we stopped for coffee in Roure and then continued on into Pinerolo. Cock up #3 stemmed from the fact that the route we had ripped off for day 17 of the 2011 TDF was inaccurate. Just before town Charles was expecting a 2C climb and when it didn’t appear he spent his slack time over lunch utilising the wifi and checking over the discrepancy. After lunch we set off for Saluzzo and the b&b but after a couple of miles the telepathy kicked in and we decided to go back and find the 2C climb. This proved to be well worth the difficulties in tracing the turn off from Villar Perosa which would take us over the Cote de Premartino (912m). On the descent we found the garden into which Tommy Voelker had run off whilst still wearing the yellow jersey last year. This 25 mile detour got us to our b&b later than expected and totally unprepared for the cobbled climb through the old town. Showered and restored we got a lift into town off Steve and had a really good dinner in a very pretty town with brilliant waitresses. We weren’t even fazed by the gently fizzing Barbera d’Asti.
Day 4 Monday 11th June – Saluzzo / Cervieres
72.50 miles, max 34.2, ascent 12667 ft, descent 8720 ft, max 8973 ft
Outdoor breakfast was very pleasant and we had time to pack and move our bikes and luggage beyond the gated community in anticipation of Steve’s arrival. Having got rid of the panniers we set off on what was to prove a very physically tough day. We were climbing gently pretty much from the outset and stopped for coffee after 2 hours and just over 20 miles. Cop-up #1 came as the roads were becoming quieter and we were cycling side by side. A police car came alongside and we were given a baleful look and gesticulated to go single file. Cop-up #2 came about an hour later when the roads were even quieter and we had just doubled up again. The same car breezed up and we were given a 3 strikes and you’re out look plus gesticulations which as well as indicating single file also drew attention to his gun holster. Any worries about clashes with the law were soon replaced by questions of sanity as we took on the HC Colle Dell’Agnello (2744m). This was the hardest climb of any trip so far and when we got to the summit (which forms the border with France) it was extremely cold and windy. Having taken shelter in the Skoda to tog up we had a hasty photo shoot and then a cold descent. Ham and cheese baguettes were all that was on offer at our late lunch stop in Ville Vieille but they were necessary fuel for the HC Col d’Izouard (2360m) which came next. This was not as long but just as hard as Agnello. Towards the top we met two medical students who were heroically carrying camping gear in addition to their panniers. At the top the Skoda was requisitioned once again as shelter from the cold wind. Photos and then another very cold descent got us to the hotel in Cervieres. We had dinner with Steve and a very pleasant German couple from Dusseldorf but after the exertions of the day and with rain falling heavily we were in bed by 21:30!!
Day 5 Tuesday 12th June – Cervieres / Modane
61.10 miles, max 34.4, ascent 7742 ft, descent 9681 ft, max 8441 ft
Woke to a dismal grey rainy day. The plan was for Steve to take one heavier pannier each to Bourg d’Oisans so that we would have less to carry tomorrow when he returns to the UK. This went out of the window when we realised how cold it was and started to layer up before setting off. Unenthusiastic start to the day but things brightened up and conditions were better after Briancon. Stopped for coffee after 20 miles and sat in the sun wringing water out of our sodden socks. The steady climb from here to Col du Lauteret (2059m) took place in pleasant sunshine but as soon as we turned off for the Galibier the wind started to increase as the temperature decreased. We had drinks in the café by the tunnel at 2556m before summiting the HC Col du Galibier (2645m). Deep snow on top but we got our photos before descending slowly in wind, hail and fog. By the time we got to Les Verneys Pete in particular was borderline hypothermic. After lunch with a couple of friendly Brits who hit the restaurant at the same time we met Steve on the outskirts of Valloire. The 5km climb of the Col du Telegraphe doesn’t really warrant a mention in this direction but the descent had to be handled with care in the patchy damp conditions. The long and increasingly wet drag from St Michelle de Maurienne up to Modane was an unwelcome postscript to the day. The problem of how to dry out wet kit was eased when we discovered a bar heater in the bathroom. In best Blue Peter style we rigged up a couple of wire coat hangers to use for sock and glove drying. Post-hypothermic Pete seriously considering the alternatives to re-crossing the Galibier if the weather was as bad in the morning. Steve having scouted out all the options we had a good dinner just up the road from the hotel.
Day 6 Wednesday 13th June – Modane / Bourg d’Oisans
80.64 miles, max 35.3, ascent 10721 ft, descent 11814 ft, max 8385 ft
Rain running off the rooftops was not the best start to the day but the night’s rest had reset Pete for the Galibier. After we said our farewells to Steve and the patroness returned Pete’s gloves we set off in the dry for about 10 metres before Charles realised he had a puncture. Sorted this out as quickly as possible and descended at pace to St Michelle de Maurienne with threatening spots of rain. The 1C Col du Telegraphe (1566m) is more significant in this direction but was dispatched at a steady and comfortable pace. We returned to the same lunch stop in Les Verneys but this time we were able to sit out in the sun. After lunch it was the north face of the HC Col du Galibier (2556m) in first sun, then rain and then wind and snow. A quick blast through the tunnel at the top this time followed by drinks in the café. The descent to Lauteret was still very cold but this time we were running towards the sun and warmth on the southern slopes. The general descending (especially after Lauteret) today made up for the disappointment of Sunday’s descent. Miles of glorious twisting downhill was interrupted only by 1) at least one tunnel with no lighting where the total blackness was disturbingly disorientating and 2) Charles managing to drop his front wheel into a trench of wet cement and coming to a dead stop in the appropriately named La Grave. Sense of humour failures over lack of food and routing issues were sorted out in Bourg d’Oisans where we dumped the panniers and had Mars, apple and banana before attempting HC Alpe d’Huez (1850m). We finished the 21 hairpins at 18:40 before our final cold descent back to the hotel in Bourg. Had a great dinner in a Dutch bar watching Germany v NL, final result 2 – 1. Bed at 23:30 trying to remember that the trip hasn’t yet finished and we still have a bit left to do tomorrow.
Day 7 Thursday 14th June – Bourg d’Oisans / Gap
64.28 miles, max 40.4, ascent 7260 ft, descent 7135 ft, max 4488 ft
Leisurely 60 mile cruise to Gap in prospect today? The fantasy was rudely interrupted just after setting off at 9:00 in glorious sunshine and straight into a not insignificant 12km climb. Tea stop at the summit of Col d’Ornon (1371m) where we were entertained by a very demanding twig chasing dog. Screaming descent of the day #1 off the col through breathtaking scenery. Our lunch stop came @ 12:30 with less than half the necessary miles clocked and a lumpy afternoon in prospect. Pasta lunch was perfect for the undulating clock chasing over the next 3 and a half hours in the saddle. The sting in the tail towards the end was 12 miles or so rising steadily before a final few steeper miles to the Col Bayard (1246m) which had more preceding false summits than was funny. However, the remaining 12.5% gradient miles down into Gap couldn’t have been better scripted and screaming descent of the day #2 was the perfect way to finish. Charles retrieved the boxes from the hotel whilst Pete began to disassemble his bike. Quick beer to celebrate the finish before the train/bus/train journey to Marseille. Cock-up #4 came on arrival at our Pension where the very nice lady tried to explain that she had thought we were a couple and that a double bed would be in order. It was 21:30 by this time so we made do with her supplying as much bedding as possible and Pete going for the floor option. Her restaurant recommendation made up for everything and we had a really good dinner with no prospect of time in the saddle tomorrow. Bed at midnight and alarms set for 06:30.
Postscript
Friday 15th June – Marseille / Reigate
Left Pension at 7:00 and got the 7:10 shuttle bus to the airport. Had coffee and then made a few last minute additions/alterations to the bike boxes prior to checking in. More coffees once we were through a very long security line and our flight leaving on time at 10:10. Julie picked us up from Gatwick at 11:00 and the debrief began over coffee with Charles and Helen when we dropped him off at home. Memories of wind chill cold and physical stress already beginning to recede…
Highlights
1. Dog on train from Marseille to Gap
2. Gorge di S.Gervasio Cesana-Claviere
3. Re-enacting Tommy Voelker’s garden moment
4. Kind waitresses
5. Marmots
6. Summiting the Galibier in snowfall and descending south
Lowlights
1. 3 strikes Italian policeman
2. Traces of dead Marmot left by guilty looking Skoda
3. Summiting the Galibier in hail and descending north
4. Dicing with hypothermia
5. Arriving cold and wet in Modane
6. Discovering the routes we had ripped off weren’t entirely accurate