Since some of you asked! Here is our itinerary and some colour on what we did followed by the journal of the trip.
The GMap Pedometers show our route segment in context of whole of France.
We stayed in Logis hotels, location details per links below.
We shadowed sections of the Tour de France 2011 (TDF) route on a number of the days.
In the Pyrenees we followed the middle part of the Raid Randonee, a classic Pyrenean cycling route, and managed up to 13 of the Pyrenean cols, many of which are Tour de France legends such as the Col du Tourmalet, which the Tour has visited 57 times!
Sat 3 Sep 68 miles
Le Grand Depart from Petes at 12 noon then Reigate - Portsmouth for overnight ferry to Caen
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=5013366
Sun 4 Sep 87 miles
Caen – Vivoin (near Le Mans)
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com?r=5013705
http://reservation-hotel.logishotels.com/jreservit/fichehotel.do?langco…
Mon 5 Sep 93 miles via Le Mans including a loop of the 24-hour race circuit
Vivoin - St Martin Le Beau (near Tours, partly following TDF stage 7 route)
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=5015737
http://reservation-hotel.logishotels.com/jreservit/recupfichehotel.do?l…
Tue 6 Sep 73 miles
St Martin Le Beau - Saint Marcel
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=5016249
http://reservation-hotel.logishotels.com/jreservit/fichehotel.do?langco…
Wed 7 Sep 68 miles
Saint Marcel - Moutier Rozeille (ViaMichelin route link instead of GMap)
http://www.viamichelin.co.uk/web/Routes?&&strStartLocid=34MTE1djJnNmYyN…
http://reservation-hotel.logishotels.com/jreservit/fichehotel.do?langco…
Thurs 8 Sep 73 miles
Moutier Rozeille – Issoire near Clermont-Ferrand via Mont Dore (medium mountain day – Massif Central, partly following TDF stage 8 route)
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com?r=5016375
http://reservation-hotel.logishotels.com/jreservit/fichehotel.do?langco…
Fri 9 Sep 84 miles
Issoire – Vic Sur Cere via Col du Pas de Peyrol and Col du Perthus (medium mountain day – Massif Central, partly following TDF stage 9 route)
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com?r=5046269
http://reservation-hotel.logishotels.com/jreservit/fichehotel.do?langco…
Sat 10 Sep 90 miles
Vic Sur Cere – Caillac (in Lot valley 75m north of Toulouse. James flew into Toulouse and joined us here
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com?r=5051007
Sun 11 Sep 99 miles
Caillac – Mirande
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com?r=5051285
http://reservation-hotel.logishotels.com/jreservit/fichehotel.do?langco…
Mon 12 Sep 72 miles
Mirande – Gurmencon (near Pau) Steve joined us here by car
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com?r=5046396
http://reservation-hotel.logishotels.com/jreservit/fichehotel.do?langco…
Tue 13 Sep 64 miles
Gurmencon – Luz Saint Sauveur (near Lourdes) via Col de Marie Blanque, Col d’Aubisque and Col de Soulor (high mountain day - Pyrenees, partly following TDF stage 13 route)
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com?r=5046431
http://reservation-hotel.logishotels.com/jreservit/fichehotel.do?langco…
Wed 14 Sep 58 miles (Pete completed first 2 climbs then headed to Montrejeau for Lunea sleeper train back to London via Toulouse 81 miles)
Luz Saint Sauveur – Bourg d’Oueil (near Bagneres des Luchons) via Col du Tourmalet, Col d’Aspin and Col de Peyresourde (high mountain day - Pyrenees, partly following reverse TDF stage 12 route)
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com?r=5044769
http://reservation-hotel.logishotels.com/jreservit/fichehotel.do?langco…
Thurs 15 Sep 77 miles
Bourg d’Oueil – Oust (near St Girons) via Col de Portillon (Spain), Col de Mente and Col de Portet d’Aspet (high mountain day - Pyrenees, partly following TDF stage 14 route, Steve left here)
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com?r=5044837
http://reservation-hotel.logishotels.com/jreservit/fichehotel.do?langco…
Fri 16 Sep 64 miles
Oust – Ax les Thermes via Col de Port and possibly Ax-les-Trois Domaines (high mountain day - Pyrenees)
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com?r=5044962
http://reservation-hotel.logishotels.com/jreservit/fichehotel.do?langco…
Sat 17 Sep 33 miles
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com?r=5045034
Ax les Thermes – Tarascon via Col de Chioula then by local train to Toulouse and plane back to Gatwick with James (high mountain day - Pyrenees)
The Journal...
Preamble
After planning in January for a trip via Paris to Biarritz which became Bilbao and then Santander and then was reversed, reversed again and finally ended up in the Pyrenees with no sign of Paris, Biarritz, Bilbao or Santander we set off…
Day 1 Saturday 3rd September – Reigate / Southsea / Portsmouth
72.52 miles, max 30.2 mph
Leisurely start with a midday photo call at Pete’s house. Charles’ flight deck (satmap gps, iPhone/ghetto blaster, heart rate monitor and bike computer) looking impressive and his helmet cam primed for action. Broke all records for driver abuse with the first incident occurring at the junction of Flanchford Road with Clayhall Lane. Uneventful after that until we hit Bexley Hill just north of Midhurst and climbed to 602 feet. This was a severe vertical test early on but having survived it the South Downs were dispatched with ease and only 100% red traffic lights through Fratton delayed our seafront promenade and coffee stop at Mary’s (Charles’ mother-in-law). An Indian take-away at Tim and Anne’s (more in-laws of Charles) was a very relaxing way to spend the few hours before setting off for the overnight ferry to Caen. In bed by 23:00 (UK) in anticipation of a 06:45 (France) rising. Charles up half the night ensuring that the flight deck and cams were all optimally charged.
Day 2 Sunday 4th September – Ouistreham / Vivoin
92.78 miles, max 41.0 mph, total climbing 5250 ft, max alt 1351 ft
Early start and still dark as we rolled off the boat. Chances for breakfast were non-existent until we hit Falaise and even there we had to buy sandwich baguettes and pastries from a boulangerie to eat with our grand café au lait in a cafe. After breakfast the rains set in and the helmet cam had to be ushered to safety. The combination of rain, wind and climbs had Pete ready for jumping onto N roads but Charles stuck with the plan. The rewards were a zooming descent and a late lunch in a Logis where we received the first of many amusing texts from Francis – ‘Where does the boat dock in Caen?’. Weather better after lunch and having arrived at the hotel we sat outside having a beer in the sun accompanied by an older couple who used their own chairs, stove and kettle. Restaurant was becoming problematic in the evening until we found a very busy diner/take-away in Beaumont sur Sarth and had dinner with Bas (Dutch guy living in Reading) who we had last seen disembarking the boat. Pete almost asleep during dinner and very glad to get to bed.
Day 3 Monday 5th September – Vivoin / St Martin Le Beau
100.54 miles, max 33.6, avg 12.8 mph, total climbing 3986 ft, max alt 613 ft
Good breakfast with Bas whose first job of the day was to find a post office to mail home some of the 10kg of kit he had carried on his back during yesterday. Did a circuit of Le Mans in the morning, Charles like a boy with his first Scalextric at Christmas. Had a grande crème and croque monsieur in Arnage and then after an easyish first 60 miles stopped for lunch in the sun. Charles suffered the attentions of an overweight Labrador but otherwise it was a great spot. What had been a strong side wind became even worse in the afternoon especially combined with 20 miles of undulations. The search for a Super U, ‘first left and 3 minutes away’, left us a little dispirited, as did the warm beer on arrival which we had to drink in our room. Very good dinner followed by a short walk in the rapidly cooling evening. We learned to treat French level crossings with extreme care after seeing the train whizz through at 70 mph within 30 seconds of the initial warning bell.
Day 4 Tuesday 6th September – St Martin Le Beau / St Marcel
76.26 miles, max 35.0, avg 12.1 mph, total climbing 3392 ft, max alt 649 ft
Lacklustre breakfast was followed by another morning of easy mileage. Had our worst coffee of the trip when we ordered grande crèmes and had a long lecture from the very attentive bar owner on what not/to expect when ordering crème, au lait, etc. After this the side winds picked up again to the extent that even standing on the pedals going downhill we managed only 28.2 mph. Had a stunning lunch stop in Buzancais which was perfect for timing, location and food. The shorter mileage meant we arrived early and had a civilised couple of beers before showering and dinner. During dinner resolved to write up the rules for future trips (see Appendix A).
Day 5 Wednesday 7th September – St Marcel / Moutier Rozielle
70.50 miles, max 34.9, avg 11.6 mph, total climbing 6100 ft, max alt 1945 ft
Woke to drizzle on what could easily have become yet another Black Wednesday. After a decent breakfast we made good progress and had our coffee stop at JJ’s in Aigurande. Charles made the mistake of plugging in his gps before asking and was subjected to a roasting in French by the owner (who turned out to be English). Having then told him to ‘stick it in’ we made friends and she revealed that she had thought we were (expletives) Dutch. Had pictures take with the local French/Yorkshire contingent and after a jus de pomme for the road left in the increasing rain. Pete adjusted his seat slightly at this point and immediately removed the problem of aching knees. Charles on the other hand started to feel a problem in his right knee which became progressively worse. Lunch proved difficult to find, Pete ending up doing a spectacular dismount into a ditch after trying to look for restaurants down side streets, but we were saved by a sympathetic patron who first said ‘Non’ but relented when he realised we were on bikes. Pete texted Steve during lunch to say it appeared to be brightening. That was the cue for heavy rain all afternoon. More undulations all the way to Aubusson exacerbated the knee situation to the extent that Charles was seriously considering having to abandon. The hope was that rest, tlc and ibuprofen would perform a miracle. Good dinner was accompanied by the best regional wine of the trip.
Day 6 Thursday 8th September – Moutier Rozielle / Issoire
81.74 miles, max 40.6, avg 12.3 mph, total climbing 13996 ft, max alt 4586 ft
Miracle was duly performed. A bright cold start after a decent breakfast took us straight into our first climb of the day. The brighter weather was accompanied by lovely countryside. At the first opportunity Charles bought out a local pharmacy of their ibuprofen and paracetamol stocks plus assorted bandages, tape and voltarol. After drinking the second poorest coffee of the trip we set off in drizzle and sunny spells. In Mont Dore we had a really good lunch before our first major ascent, the Col de la Croix Morand (1401 m). Cool and sunny at the summit and our first real feeling of achievement. Not at all prepared for the glorious descent which followed, 45- 60 minutes at speeds of 20- 40 mph. Slight wobble at the beginning for Pete attempting to stow his camera at over 30 mph approaching a bend whilst on the white lines. Well deserved celebratory beer in Champeix sitting in the sun. Entering Issoire during the rush hour is not recommended but was negotiated safely. Charles continued the rest and tlc treatment before another excellent dinner. Pete had the long awaited fromage blanc for dessert. Charles didn’t look convinced it had been worth the wait.
Day 7 Friday 9th September – Issoire / Vic sur Cere
83.48 miles, max 41.3, avg 10.3 mph, max alt 5321 ft
Another stern test for Charles’ knee. Best breakfast so far only slightly marred by Charles eating both croissants but with the most delicious black coffee. Comic cold/hot water moment for Charles with the Patron before leaving. Issoire’s morning rush hour turned out to be worse than the evening before and we had a hairy moment when an oncoming car pulled out to overtake before seeing us and retreating slightly. Lots of long climbs set the tone for the morning session whilst the weather was hot and sunny. No obvious coffee stop presented itself but as time was at a premium anyway we pressed on to a really good lunch stop in Allanche. Here, Pete read down the menu and seeing tete, passed on. Charles stopped when he saw veau. Unfortunately for Charles they were on the same line and the resultant Tete de Veau left him undernourished for the afternoon climbs (over compensated by cranking up the power ballads on the ghetto blaster). The afternoon culminated in the Col de Serre (1363 m), Col du Pas de Payrol (1589 m) and last but definitely not least Col de Pertus (1309 m). Confusion over chevrons meant that the expected climb into Vic sur Cere was actually a stonking descent and a great finish to the day’s cycling. A quick swim and beer before dinner in the 60’s/70’s décor dining room listening to 50’s muzak.
Day 8 Saturday 10th September – Vic sur Cere / Caillac
92.01 miles, max 38.3, avg 14.2 mph, total climbing 5436 ft, max alt 2483 ft
Slightly delayed start of 08:30 after a good breakfast because our bill (and others) had not been prepared. Great early pace set an average over 16 mph for the first hour. Nice coffee stop and cruising all day in very hot (mid 30’s) sun. Unpromising looking lunch stop turned up trumps before more cruising during the afternoon as we lost height. Met James just after 17:00 and arrived at Denis & Sandrine’s (friends of a friend of Pete’s) not much later. This was one of the high spots of the trip. After beer and a shower we went for a walk through the vineyards which surround their house and village. After a dip in the pool we had an excellent dinner on the terrace with probably a little too much wine and a home made prune liqueur from 1996.
Day 9 Sunday 11th September – Caillac / Mirande
100.24 miles, max 33.7, avg 12.5 mph, total climbing 4973 ft, max alt 1049 ft
Nice breakfast with Denis & Sandrine before a slightly hung over departure. Slow first hour with hills and low average speed was balanced out by a second hour of chain ganging and quick pace. Pitted at the side of the road for a banana stop after 33 miles and had a coffee stop shortly after. Pushed on to Fleurance for a lunch stop just after 14:00. Wasn’t looking promising but we eventually found somewhere on the square and polished off the only option of roast duck. Fortunately, high cloud saved us from high temperatures and it was mid 20’s all day. Unfortunately, Charles’ left knee now went awol and we had a less comfortable 30 miles than we (especially he) had been expecting. Got our first view of the Pyrenees starkly laid out before us just prior to our destination. We didn’t get any more comfortable when on arrival in Mirande our pre booked hotel was completely locked down. Not a good moment. Charles entered into a one way conversation with a very pretty girl who pointed out the hotels of the town (most of which were also shut). Didn’t take too long to find the one which was open and we all felt much better. Charles started to investigate bail out options again before dinner at a brilliant pizzeria recommended by our patron.
Day 10 Monday 12th September – Mirande / Gurmencon
79.5 miles, max 41.4 mph
Decision time… Charles opted for a rest day (to save himself for the high mountains) and took a taxi to Tarbes and then trains to Oleron St Marie. Pete and James decided that without satmap the easiest route was N roads via Tarbes and Pau. After trashing the Terracotta Warrior this meant an initial 13 miles of 3 long climbs/descents with a final 10% screaming descent and then bombing along at 20 mph before lunch in a Routier. More speedy progress after lunch got us to Oleron for 16:15 where we immediately bumped into Charles! Went for a beer and texted Steve (operating remotely from Mission Control Earlswood) who joined us at the bar within minutes!! Moved on to a really nice hotel in Gurmencon and downloaded (fortunately as it then became corrupted) Charles’ head cam onto Steve’s laptop. Checked out some of the files and they were looking good despite James’ worst predictions. Good dinner and bed for a 07:15 breakfast and early start.
Day 11 Tuesday 13th September – Gurmencon / Luz St Sauveur
66.28 miles, max 44.2 mph, total climbing 10100 ft, max alt 5649 ft
Maybe it was pre climb nerves but Pete had a sleepless night and James ended up on floor feeling he was being attacked by bed bugs. Up at 06:45 for a good breakfast with an air of expectancy descending over the 3 riders. Stowed the bags in Steve’s car and then set off for the Col de Marie Blanque (1035 m). Rode up this together. Then a screaming descent via a cow filled plateau. Lunch in Eaux Bonnes before attempting the Col d’Aubisque (1709 m). This was a tough but stunning climb. James set a sizzling pace and Pete & Charles summited together. Steve settling nicely into the role of official tour photographer. Had a large beer and ice cream to celebrate whilst watching a Buzzard put on an aerial display. Another whizzing descent followed by the relatively easy 2k climb of the Col du Soulor (1474 m). Final huge descent of the day went on for miles. Soft drinks and pastries in Villelongue set us up for the gradual 8 mile ascent to Luz St Sauveur. The steep final few hundred metres were good practice for the next day. Had a couple of beers before dinner but a request for nuts was answered with ‘oui… non!’ but we did end up with cheesy wotsits (French style). Dinner was humorous if not entirely filling and Steve having arrived late finished almost at the same time. Attempted to arrange breakfast for 07:30 but it was unclear whether we would get anything more than coffee. Had a short walk before bed and dreams of the triple chevron on the Aubisque.
Day 12 Wednesday 14th September – Luz St Sauveur / Montrejeau
64.75 miles, max 40.6 mph
Breakfast room still in darkness when we went down but soon had coffee and bread. Everyone quite reflective again with the prospect of the Col du Tourmalet (2115 m) first up. Steve’s Volvo estate making a convincing imitation of the Skodas in the TDF advertisements. Very misty start but perfect conditions for the climb which we all managed in under 2 hours. Great feeling at the top and we had a couple of coffees after the obligatory photos. Really good descent and then straight into the climb for the Col d’Aspin (1490 m). James had an early mechanical which delayed his ascent and Charles fixed his high-low settings at the summit to prevent a recurrence. Screaming descent into Arreau still left us too late to get a decent lunch and we had to make do with crepes. At this point Pete decided it may be cutting it too fine to attempt the Col du Peyresourde before Montrejeau and so we parted company here. Charles & James continuing to the Col du P and then a climb to 1400 m for their hotel. The run down for Pete was into a headwind but everything worked out fine. Train to Toulouse, shower on the station, dinner and a relaxing hour to spare before boarding the Lunea at 22:30. Shared a compartment with Daniel who had just completed the Brest – Perpignan Diagonale and had lots of interesting cycling stories.
Postscript
Thursday 15th September
Pete rode from Paris Austerlitz to the Gare du Nord with Daniel and had coffee there before Daniel boarded his train to Chantilly and Pete checked in for Eurostar, home and a long arranged party on Friday night in Wigan.
Over the next 2 days Steve headed home to Mission Control Earlswood via Calais.
Charles and James continued over the next 3 days to complete the Col de Portillon (Spain), the Col de Mente, the Col de Portet d’Aspet, the Col de Port, the Route des Corniches (both ways) and the Col de Chioula before flying back from Toulouse on Saturday afternoon.
In summary
3 riders, 3 bikes, 12 days, 985 miles, max speed 44.2 mph, 0 punctures, several mechanicals, 1 spectacular dismount, 2 imploding knees, 1 Skoda look-a-like, 1 Col d’Aubisque, 1 Col du Tourmalet, many other Cols, lots of sunshine, a little heavy rain, some horrible side winds, fantastic food, 1 tete de veau, stunning scenery, excellent guidance by satmap.
Appendix A
Rules
1. No lunch time start on the first day to avoid adrenalin overload
2. Don’t plan more than 70 miles per day
3. Leave hotels before 08:15
4. Never, under any circumstances, follow Super U signs
5. Don’t text anyone to say it is brightening up in the afternoon
6. Throw away rule 2 around day 5
7. Rest days are only allowed for imploded knees or other catastrophes
Appendix B
Hints & Tips
1. Energy drinks become undrinkable after day 1
2. Avoid headwinds & side-winds like the plague
3. Don’t do coffee stops where a woman’s touch is obviously missing
4. You can’t have enough monogrammed chamois leathers and J cloths
5. Eat your croissant first at breakfast
6. Everyone should do the leg from Aubusson to Issoire
7. Take at least 3 riders to mitigate a catastrophic failure